Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
